Microneedling or derma rolling, is a collagen induction therapy, that has been use by dermatologists with good results to treat various conditions such as scarring, skin pigmentation, stretch marks, and wrinkles.
This technique uses a roller with hundreds of tiny needles or a (stamp) pen to punctures the skin and essentially create wounds. This intentional trauma to the skin causes the body to produce more collagen and other healing compounds to repair these wounds.
Collagen along with soft keratin is responsible for skin strength and elasticity and keeps the skin looking youthful, firm and tight, while a breakdown or loss of collagen leads to wrinkles and other signs of aging. Increasing collagen production is the aim of microneedling when seeking skin rejuvenation or repair.
Microneedling
is also a transdermal drug
delivery method that allow medications or topicals to further penetrate into
the deeper layers of skin, enhancing a specific treatment. This can be seen in the use of microneedling and minoxidil in scalp for hair
loss or microneedling and platelet- rich plasma for skin treatment.
Skin Thickness
Why and where the microneedling will be done is important. Because skin is not uniform in thickness, face and body can be treated differently. Even facial thickness is a factor as shown in clinical study where it was explained that if the upper eyelid is average skin thickness, then the nasal tip skin thickness was 3.30 times thicker and the brow/forehead was 2.8 times thicker. 2 What this means to a professional clinician with in office devices is they can vary the depth of needle depending on what quadrant of face they are working on or what part of the body. Something that cannot be done with a derma roller.
Skin evaluation
is another factor. Not all people can be treated with microneedling, for
example people who have active acne, bleeding disorders, melasma or keloids may
not be good candidates.
Needle Size Matters
Needle size
varies when addressing different treatments and can range from 0.5mm to
3mm. If skin rejuvenation or wrinkle
treatment is desired, collagen boosting starts at 0.5mm needle size. 3
Many derma
rollers sold for at home use are 0.25mm and will not produce collagen, so they
are essentially creating tiny holes in skin without the collagen benefit. Longer needled motorized devices are usually
rated as “medical” not “cosmetic” and are not available to the public. .4
Most
dermatologist if they recommend derma rollers at all, would not recommend over
0.5mm needle length for in home use.
So, what does
all this mean for the consumer? If you
want to facilitate exfoliation of the skin, improve the appearance of skin,
give skin a smoother or more luminous look the in home 0.25 derma rollers can
achieve this objective. But if you are targeting wrinkles and want to increase
collagen production, a longer needle is reportedly required.
Devices
It should be
noted, most dermatologist combine Radio Frequency or insulated RF with the
microneedling. This enhances the treatment, even further increasing the
collagen production. These devices are microneedling pen which come with
disposable tips to ensure needle sharpness, (lessening the likelihood of skin
tearing) and to decreases risk of infection.
At home devices
that are properly cleaned, are suggested for about 10 treatments before they
should be discarded. Some dermatologist encourages a single treatment then
discarding.
Numbing and Aftercare
If you are
getting a professional treatment, a numbing agent is applied to the face prior
to the procedure, since the in office objective is to create pin point
bleeding, as stated before to intentional injury the skin.
If an inpatient treatment is prohibitive due to the cost, often around a hefty $250 per treatment and you have decided to try a derma roller than make skin safety your priority.
At home skin safety tips
- Your new derma roller should be cleaned with alcohol
- Your face should be thoroughly cleaned with a produce like Cetaphil. Think clean basic products, no additives or perfumes.
- It is suggested you numb your skin if you are using 0.5mm derma roller. There are various numbing creams available on the market.
How to actually
derma roll, watch videos like Dr. David Lim, a dermatologist, on you tube, who
demonstrates how to properly use a derma roller and what areas to avoid and
why. Contrary to what many say diagonal rolling is not encouraged.
After moisturize your skin with again a clean product with no active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, tretinoin, etc. Avoid makeup and sun for at least 48hours, then apply a mineral bases sunscreen.
Do plenty of research
and watch videos like Dr.Dray , another dermatologist who gives more cautionary
advice and outlines the lengthy steps that are taken to ensure proper skin
healing after microneedling.